If you’re doing a wiring job in your home, your local community may require an electrical permit. It looks like it's much simpler than I thought it was going to be. 1.Get any necessary permits for doing electrical work. Wow Hmmmzzz That was such a helpful post. I would maybe want 2 switches if I was installing 4 of them though. Could I wire all four in series the same way or is that taking the piss a bit? I have two brand new 58watt fluorescent lights that I am fitting, the thing is I also have two old 40w ones. ![]() I am quite para incase it goes on fire because my garage has 3 bikes and a load of tools in there. Thats less than your normal light bulb and load wise very lowĪ fused switch is a good idea esp for a shed Take a feed from the current brown & blue wire on the current lamp and connect to the second lampĬonnect an earth from one lamp to the other job doneįloro's are only normally 36 watts or there abouts, even higher powered ones are only 70 W So even though the light is switched off there is power there,īasically just run your 2 core + earth cable from your existing light to the next light and then the next light,ĭont touch the unconnected red wire in the strip connector What you have is an older wiring style called 3 plating mixed in with the newer style of wiring, its generally frowned apon these days because you always have a live connection in the light fitting (the red in the connecter block) Should I consider getting a fused switch? Also, I'm not too sure what the electrics in my garage can handle in terms of power. The current (lol) setup doesn't have a fuse in the switch. I have looked at some wiring diagrams on the net but I'm wanting to be sure. The red wire is actually two wires that are joined using one of those connector blocks within the light fitting but not connected to anything. This is the current setup with a single switch and single light. I am wanting to have two fluorescent lights installed off of the single switch. This is the current setup in terms of wiring. I am looking for a wee bit of help with the wiring. Then earth all the light fittings, and then from the switch, wire in the neutral wires in series, attaching the neutral wire coming from the switch to the blue at the connector block in the fluorescent light, and the neutral wire leading to the next light connects to the brown wire on the connector block in the florescent light(the next light being nearer to the fusebox). Would I just keep connecting the live wires together so it is prettymuch one big live connection from fusebox to switch with nothing between it? ![]() The current wiring has the power coming straight from the fusebox into the light fitting, then the switch wired into the light fitting. Always observe proper lock-out techniques when working on electrical circuits.I am going to be adding an extra 2 fluorecent lights to my garage and I was wondering if anyone can tell me how to wire it in. ![]() If electric loads that are controlled in this manner need to be serviced, power must be safely disconnected at the source. Three and four-way switches are never to be used as disconnection means. ![]() When controlling a light from an additional location a double-pole, double-throw, or 4-way switch is inserted in between the two three-way switches 3-way and 4-way switching circuit From the final 3-way switch the common terminal is connected to the switch leg which then feeds the lamp load. The first 3-way switch will have the constant hot connected to its common terminal, then the two traveller terminals will be run to the second 3-way switch, where they will connect to the two traveller terminals. When installing 3-way switch loops all switching must be done in the ungrounded, or “hot” conductor. If a light was to be controlled from ten different locations, then we would need two 3-way switches and eight 4-way switches.Įach 3-way switch comes with three terminals: one common terminal and two traveller terminals. For example, if a light is to be controlled from four different locations we would need two 3-way switches and two 4-way switches. If we need to control the light from more than two locations then we simply install a 4-way, or double-pole, double-throw, switch in between the two 3-way switches.Īs a rule, we must always install 3-way switches in pairs, and then as many 4-way switches as necessary. When a light is to be controlled from two different locations, such as the top and bottom of a set of stairs, or a room with more than one entrance, we use a pair of single-pole, double-throw switches to create a 3-way switch loop.
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